A love letter to Perry's Silver Lake Brewing Project

SLBP, my favorite spot in western New York, turns five this weekend.

Note: This newsletter is supported by Donnelly’s Public House, a wonderful canal-side establishment in the village of Fairport.

When Pilar McKay and Ryan Fitzsimmons realized a seasonal theater company — Shake on the Lake — could thrive in Wyoming County (and other rural areas), they started thinking about what else a small community like Perry would support.

And after five years of discussion and planning, they, along with head brewer/managing partner Tony Jones, opened Silver Lake Brewing Project, 14 Borden Ave.

The community has certainly embraced the tiny brewery inside the historic 1860 building that started as a livery stable for a nearby inn, became a silent move theater, and then morphed into newspaper office.

Saturday, SLBP will celebrate its fifth anniversary with live music, new beers and merchandise, and food. If you’ve followed my work for the past eight years, you know how fond I am of this place. So I encourage those who have yet to visit to remedy that as quickly as possible.

As I noted in my 2017 D&C story about the opening, the building, which sits just a block from West Main Street (Route 39), has always been part of the community fabric. And the brewery breathed new life into a space and become a community gathering space.

SLBP is my favorite brewery in western New York. It’s the kind of place that I would visit weekly if it was a touch closer to Rochester. But as it stands now, our visits there feel like a special occasion.

Jones doesn’t chase trends. You’re not going to find hazy IPAs and heavily fruited sours here. Instead, the beers are thoughtful and expressive — across a wide range of styles. I am particularly fond of SLBP’s black lager and the mixed fermentation farmhouse ales.

The original ownership model of the brewery also added another layer and level to the community vibe. Instead of having two or three owners, SLBP features a large number of shareholders and then a core of managing partners. So many, many community members have a stake in the brewery.

The brewery staff is equally wonderful and personable. No matter who is working you’re sure to strike up a pleasant conversation.

A love letter to Perry

The SLBP model is just a small reason why my wife Cassie and I love Silver Lake. We love Perry. And that’s not even taking into account the regionally famous cheese vending machine at the neighboring East Hill Creamery. Plus, the Charcoal Corral is a legendary spot to enjoy takeout or take in a movie at the Silver Lake Twin Drive-In.

There are other incredible places to enjoy a meal like The Hole in the Wall (which remains paused during the pandemic), Ration Wine Bar, and Butter Meat Co. Market. Silver Lake (the lake itself) is worth exploring and the Perry entrance to Letchworth State Park is just a few miles down the road.

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Audie has even made multiple visits to SLBP. On a recent visit, he dutifully chomped on some local cheese while Cass and I enjoyed an expansive flight featuring a smoked amber lager, a Pilsner, and some other traditional-leaning beauties. Jones also makes one of the best cream ales in western New York.

When I sat down to write this appreciation post, I didn’t intend for it to sound like an informercial. But I think it’s pretty easy to see that I truly love SLBP.

If I ever muster up the courage to open a brewery I want it to be like SLBP. I want the beers to be the focus. I want the atmosphere to be unassuming and inviting. I want it to be the type of place that encourages easy conversations. I want it to be a place where you consistently run into the same regulars and those folks become friends.

The brewery name, obviously, comes from the neighboring lake. While the serpent depicted in the brewery logo is a nod to the Loch Ness-like monster spotted in the lake during the 1850s. When you find yourself in the area, make sure to see if you can spot the legendary serpent.

Beer of the week

When Irondequoit Beer Co. head brewer Nate Kester heard I had to be out of town for the always incredible Rochester Real Beer Expo, he was kind enough to offer a one-off crowler of the beer they poured at the festival.

I am so, so spoiled. IBC poured a version of its Belgian strong dark ale with dark cherries. I was floored. The beer was gorgeous. It drank like something you’d enjoy from a storied brewery like Ommegang or Allagash. The addition of the cherries blended perfectly with the dark fruitiness of the base. I hope others enjoyed the beer as much as I did, because it would force IBC to produce this one again.

News and notes

This section needs populating every week. It’s impossible for me to keep track of everything. So I implore beer industry folks to email me at clevelandprost@gmail.com. Let me know what’s going on. I want to use this space to help spread the word about your events and releases!

Title sponsor: Donnelly’s Public House

This work is made possible through support from Donnelly’s Public House, 1 Water St. in Fairport. So make sure to get out to Fairport and support one of the best establishments in our area.

I remain open to sponsorships, sponsored content, and advertisements, especially if it’ll keep the newsletter free for readers. And if you have information about upcoming releases, events, or happenings, don’t hesitate to reach out. For more information, feel free to drop me a line at clevelandprost@gmail.com.

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