European-influenced DeWolf Brewing coming to Victor very, very soon

Brewery founder Justin DeWolf started homebrewing in Barcelona a decade ago. Now, he wants to bring a bit of that flavor to Ontario County.

The region’s newest brewery has roots in Spain. No, seriously.

Justin DeWolf, a Phelps native, lived in Barcelona for a number of years, started the first homebrewing club there, and is bringing a bit of that Catalonian flair and influence to his under-construction Victor brewery.

DeWolf Brewing, which is on track to open in late 2024 or early 2025, will feature a Spanish-influenced food menu, a bright, airy ambiance, and a focus on fresh, local lager to its historic spot at 60 Maple Ave. Family drew DeWolf back to the Finger Lakes region and he’s hopeful his brewpub, in planning for the past 2½ years, will offer a family-friendly atmosphere.

Interior demolition started this week and there is hope renovations will proceed quickly once the space is primed. DeWolf said there is an outside chance the brewery could have been ready to serve at the Victor Music and Food Festival on Aug. 10.

Spanish roots

DeWolf’s career as a developer in marketing and software brought him to Barcelona more than a decade ago. He lived there for five years and was making bi-monthly trips back even after returning to the U.S. DeWolf, now a married father of two, is working closely with a business partner, also an American but still based in Barcelona, on this project. They’ve worked together for nearly 20 years.

While in Barcelona, DeWolf started homebrewing, which was exceedingly difficult in Spain because he had to obtain most of his ingredients from Germany and other neighboring countries. That led to events at breweries and even some guest brewing on those professional systems.

“I just wanted to be involved,” DeWolf said.

As more and more craft breweries opened in Barcelona, many opened by American expats, they started exploring business ideas in the industry. They considered starting up the region’s first mobile canning service. DeWolf never took the plunge, but he did eventually start a hop farm in upstate New York after moving back. That venture lasted a few years but was eventually abandoned as DeWolf realized how labor intensive it was and how difficult it was to compete.

DeWolf Brewing renderings

Fast forward to the middle of the pandemic and the partners began seriously considering jumping all the way in with a full-fledged brewery. They loved the industry, loved the product, so it just made sense, the more and more they considered it.

DeWolf said village officials have been exceedingly helpful and are excited about the project. Before construction could begin, it took quite a bit of effort to secure financing and finalize design plans. DeWolf said they are working with Rochester-based Staach design studio on the internal plans. Staach also done work for Aldaskeller Wine Co. in the South Wedge, Radio Social in the North Winton Village, Playhouse//Swillburger near the Wedge, and Ugly Duck coffee in the East End.

Staach designers have a great eye for detail and create memorable spaces that are both usable and interesting. They’re cognizant of how consumers interact with spaces, something that DeWolf said he certainly thought about at a subconscious level. But the beauty of working with an experienced designer is that they can give life and form to your vision, DeWolf said.

If you’ve followed me for long enough on social media, you’ll remember my old gag — hey, look at that beautiful, old building. I bet it would make an awesome brewery. DeWolf played a similar game. He was constantly on the lookout for potential brewery properties. He saw this track-side property in Victor and his wheels got turning. And when it didn’t sell immediately, that’s when he and his business partner made the decision to jump in and buy it.

Here’s what to expect

The DeWolf property, certainly a well-known landmark in the village of Victor, was built in 1890 and has undergone a few expansions since. It sits on Maple Avenue (State Route 444) and is accessible by passing the old video rental store. The building is visible from Route 96 (Main Street).

The building has agricultural roots, DeWolf said. At one point, it was a feed store. At another, it sold farm supplies. There is antique equipment in the building that was used to crush grain, he said. Rising construction costs have been one of the major hurdles as they start work. Structural (steel) work is needed, as well as the installation of a sprinkler system due to the addition of a kitchen.

“People ask, ‘Would it have been cheaper just to take the whole building down,’” DeWolf said. “Probably. But it has such sentimental value in the village. People recognize it. We want to maintain that connection to the community.”

DeWolf said the village has plans to upgrade the surrounding area, including the potential of removing the dormant railroad tracks. That would create even more opportunity for the brewery as DeWolf said as the property straddles both sides of the tracks.

In total, the building is 8,500 square feet. It’ll feature a full kitchen, a main bar area, seating for up to 150 guests, multiple seating areas (and styles), a 10-barrel brewhouse production system with multiple horizontal lagering tanks, and a dedicated area for retail and to-go orders. DeWolf Brewing will hire an experienced brewer to head production.

“We want to do this properly,” DeWolf said. “We don’t want to come out and say, ‘OK, we’re learning the system, we’re learning how to brew.’ I want someone who can do it well straight out of the gate.”

He continued, “People are clamoring for something a bit different, something next level. And it seems like everyone has been really, really excited.”

The kitchen really “brings something back from Spain,” DeWolf said. The foods will be approachable but feature some Spanish flair or influence, according to Chris Lindstrom, a food and beverage consultant who is working with DeWolf to develop the menu.

“These will be dishes that everyone’s familiar with but with traditional (Spanish) flavors,” Lindstrom said. “It’ll be fusion done with respect, with intention, not fusion because we don’t know who we are. It’s going to be exciting to bring those flavors into this area.”

Lindstrom and DeWolf said they’ve drawn a lot of inspiration from the incredible Wayland Brewing from Orchard Park. (If you haven’t been there, remedy that ASAP.)

The beers sound so, so dreamy. DeWolf wants to open with an amber lager, light lager, and West Coast IPA. There are no plans to distribute. But it wouldn’t surprise me if you find DeWolf beers on draft at a few spots around town. The brewpub will also serve wines, spirits, ciders, and cocktails.

Victor, like the village of Fairport, is an enticing brewery destination on the east side of Rochester. Within a small area, the community can gather at No BS Brew’s satellite taproom at 49 W. Main St., kick back in Stumblin’ Monkey Brewing’s clubhouse-like taproom at 61 School St., or experience small-batch offerings at Twin Elder Brewery (75 Coville St.) just up the hill from the village downtown.

Of note, Other Half FLX’s distribution hub, warehouse, and barrel-aging facility is within a few thousand feet of all of these locations. Its East Bloomfield taproom (6621 State Routes 5 And 20) is just down the road from all of this.

Sitting at north end of the Finger Lakes, specifically Canandaigua Lake, Ontario County is certainly a booming craft beverage destination. And the fun part is that each spot does everything just a bit differently, so there is really something to draw and appeal to many.