Oktoberfest season arrives (finally!!)
In the mood for heartier German lagers? You should be. Here's a rundown of some favorites.
Note: This newsletter is supported by Donnelly’s Public House, a wonderful canal-side establishment in the village of Fairport.
If you love beer, this is one of the most glorious times of the year. The transition from summer to fall brings about Oktoberfest season. And to me, there is no better time to be a beer drinker, because hearty Marzens or lighter Festbiers are bountiful and in season.
(I sound like a farmer extolling the virtues of his most recent crop of cauliflower here.)
Head to many local breweries and just about every shop (or grocery store) offering a solid beer selection and you're bound to encounter a wide variety of fresh lagers. Festbier, the more modern example of the sometimes catch-all category, is a bright, golden lager with a lightly toasty, bread dough characteristic. (Thanks for the refresher BJCP guidelines.) The more traditional Marzen is always richer with a deeper reddish or copper color with a breadier malt backbone and moderate hop bitterness.
Over the past three weeks, it feels like I've been drinking nothing but Oktoberfests. I would love to hear about your favorites. Drop a comment at the end of the post and email me. Here are a few of my favorites:
1. Rohrbach Oktoberfest: As it has for the past 31 years, Rohrbach continues to churn out Rochester classics and solid representations of classic styles. Its Oktoberfest is one of the first I seek out every season. It's a little heartier than many on the list (probably due to the use of Vienna malt), but it's always clean and crisp.
2. Zero Gravity Oktoberfest: This Vermont brewery produces some of my favorite lagers. I swoon over the brewery's dreamy Kellerbier and I think its Oktoberfest is the best domestic example available in our market. Like all the best examples, it's brewed with all German ingredients. And I love the fact that it's now available in 12 packs.
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3. Ayinger Oktober Fest Marzen: This German classic is among the goats of the style. It's rich and flavorful with the requisite breadiness and a surprising amount of body. If you haven't experienced the style before, this is the optimal place to start.
4. Rothaus Eiszapfle: This German import is another personal favorite. It's a bit different from others in the style. The bitterness is more pronounced (floral bitterness present) and there is a fresh bread crust maltiness.
5. Jack's Abby Copper Legend: Along with Zero Gravity, Jack's Abby makes some of the finest lagers available in the upstate New York market. Its Copper Legend stands among its best seasonal offerings. There is a nice amount of sweetness present, as well as the requisite bready and biscuity notes.
6. Thin Man Oktoberfest: In my Untappd check-in, I simply stated, "Local champ." Buffalo's Thin Man might be the king of collaboration in our region and is unquestionably known for its lineup of hazy IPAs. But I think head brewer Rudy Watkins and his crew quietly craft some of the best lagers in this area. This one features the textbook bready and toasty malt character you expect.
I also really like recent offerings from Three Heads, Naked Dove, Community Beer Works, Battle Street, Victory. Great Lakes, Steuben, von Trapp, Genesee, Left Hand.
Cran Orange Kellerbier returns
Genesee's fall seasonal (though it was released in summer) is back for a second year. The specialty release bridges the gap between late summer and early fall. Here's a quick video review from Twitter:
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I'm alllllll in for Oktoberfest season! Fall is be my favorite beer drinking season (and season in general), and a good Marzen can't be beat during it. Ayinger is a great one, for sure, and you've mentioned a bunch of other excellent ones. If I may do some blatant, shameful self-promotion, IBC is doing our Oktoberfest on the 17th of September. We're finalizing things, but we'll have 4-5 of our German lagers (including the doppelbock! We secretly saved a keg!) and some great German food (some Swan's made with Equinox, our Marzen, among other grub). Swing out, if you're free, and see how Equinox is this year! Bobby and I will be bartending!
Genesee's Oktoberfest is excellent and you can't beat the price point. For that, they'll always be my #1. Other favorites are Swiftwater (all their German lagers are top-notch), Saranac and Sierra Nevada (the collaboration series they did with classic German breweries was outstanding).